Why did you pick this product vs others?: This tool is great for precision sanding! The angles offered on this product are very helpful for different sanding needs. I highly recommend. Read more

There is no way to attach this to the sander, but it seems to stay in place OK because it is made from thick heavy metal and sits on top of the belt guide. I measured the angle settings with a digital angle gage and they are slightly off (about 2 degrees), but you can compensate for this and it's probably close enough, but you'll want to measure yours if you need to resharpen a knife to an exact angle. Read more

I’ve been using a 1x30 belt sander to sharpen knives for a while now, but getting consistent angles is always a struggle. This little adjustable angle guide fixed that immediately. It took me a minute to dial in the exact degree I wanted, but once I set it, it held steady and helped me achieve cleaner, more even edges than I ever managed freehand. The adjustability is smooth, and it locks into place solidly. I usually sharpen at 20–25 degrees, depending on the knife, and this guide makes repeatability super easy. It’s designed for edge-leading sharpening, which works well with the way I’ve set up my belt sander. It feels well-built—not flimsy or plastic-y—and it didn’t shift or loosen while I was working. I’ve used it on kitchen knives, EDC folders, and even a couple of bushcraft blades with great results across the board. This guide has made sharpening faster and more reliable for me. Read more

It works, but is not a precision tool. Good for setting rough bevel. I am using a Harbor Freight 1x30 bench sander, and some lack of precision may be just due to some flex in the design of that particular sander, or it may be the nature of the design. Anyway, before using, make sure to adjust the factory L bracket that serves as the backer to the belt when sanding. This jig pushes the belt out of pure vertical alignment and creates significant friction. I only have one tool to test it with. Medium and large blades will work easily, but narrower blades may be difficult due to the gap formed between the end of the ramp (that sets the angle) and the belt. My L bracket has a slight amount of flex, so gentle but even pressure is needed for consistency. Read more

I usually use an EdgePro clone to sharpen my expensive ChefKnivestoGo Gyutos etc. I modiified to use 1/8" plywood carriers with mineral oil moistened 2000grit carbide paper. Works great, but is a bit slow. Some years ago I bought a 1" Harbor Freight belt sander - but abandoned the effort to use it for sharpening because of concerns overheating would ruin the temper on my knives, as there was no practical way to control belt speed. But when I saw this angle guide specifically designed for 1" belt sanders, I decided to revisit this approach. This manufacturer offers 2 versions of their guide. One where the paper is moving down into the blade edge, and this one where the paper moves away from the edge - not into it. Buy this one - only. I repeat - Do Not buy the model where the paper moves down into the upturned knife edge. It is unsafe. To start with, I decided I would not use aluminum oxide or carbide paper at all because of likely overheating. Before I "retired" my previous attempts, I did buy some plain cloth and leather belts. I will only use those. At this point, the primary abrasive is a cloth belt, fairly moistened with mineral oil, with 'strips' of 5um diamond paste rubbed in every few inches. I will use this system similar to the way I use 2000grit oil soaked carbide with the edgepro. (5um is roughly 2000grit paper Here are more details; 1" x 30" belt sander with a cloth belt, 5µm diamond paste, and mineral oil to finish or touch up VG-10 or similar core 210- 240mm knife at 15° per side. Here is the Time per stroke, number of strokes, and key variables to keep the process safe and effective: Target Parameters: 1. Time per Stroke (1 pass = L to R or R to L): • Aim for 2–3 seconds per stroke. • Slow, deliberate, edge-leading-away motion (like stropping). • If you're alternating sides, that’s about 4–6 seconds per cycle (left + right). 2. Number of Strokes per Side (Initial & Maintenance): • Initial refinement / micro-burr removal: ~ 10–15 strokes per side, alternating after each stroke. • Routine touch-up / maintenance stropping: ~ 5–8 strokes per side, alternating. Use very light pressure — let the belt and paste do the work. Think of it as polishing, not grinding. Best Practice Notes for This Setup: • Speed: Let the belt sander run at full speed since it’s fixed RPM (~3500 FPM). Use light pressure and longer strokes to reduce friction heat. • Heat Control: Cloth + oil + diamond helps, but VG-10 is sensitive. Keep your finger on the blade near the edge — if it gets too warm to touch, stop immediately. • Angle Maintenance: A consistent 15° angle is key. And its provided by this jig. Optional: Visual Cue System Mark the edge with a Sharpie — if the paste removes it evenly at 15°, your angle is good. If it's wiped from the shoulder or the very apex only, adjust your guide or wrist. Like the EdgePro, this system can be a bit difficult to use since your non-dominant hand is used for strokes on one side. Try supporting the belt sander on its back. You now have gravity working for you, not against you. If still a problem, you 'could' (I have not) mount the back-laying sander on a Lazy Susan, and rotate 180' to effectively reverse tape and angle so you always use the same dominant hand. Jusr remember, belt moving toward you is not as safe as it moving away. Lets you make an interesting "WorkSharp -like" sharpening approach for expensive Chef knives.. 5 stars. Read more