The resulting print are so brittle, I wanted to print my RC plane with it, but decided not to Read more

This stuff prints like a dream. Really easy to dial in. I run 245°C to 250°C and 0.40 to 0.50 flow rate depending on what is needed to get the wall thickness I prefer. Great layer adhesion too. Really pretty inexpensive based on actual extruded length. This is a full 2kg roll (some LW PLA vendors short you on weight) and at 0.50 flow rate this is like getting two rolls of regular PLA . Even better if you can run it at 0.35 or 0.45 which many guys are getting. That was the "good news". The bad news is that this stuff leaves brown blobs all over the part. Some are easy to just pick off, others are not. The brown blobs go away at lower print temperatures, but then so does the foaming action you buy this stuff for. If you drop below 240°C you are wasting your money because the foaming action you want is very poor. I just bite the bullet and pick off (or cut off) the brown blobs and streaks, which go away under paint anyway. But there you are. Henry Ford said you could "buy a Model T in any color you wanted, as long as it was black." eSun took a page from his playbook and the only color you get here is a (very nice actually) beige or really light tan. It makes a GREAT undercoat color for any paint you want so there's that at least. Bottom line is I like the stuff but wish the blob problem would go away. Took off one star because it wouldn't let me take off just a half star. Read more

Because the LW PLA expands it has negative and positive aspects. The expansion allows you to print parts at less than half the weight. You can make several aircraft from 1 roll. The expansion also means retraction doesn't really work that well so it will take a while to get dialed in. Read more

It produces beautiful, smooth prints that barely need sanding or priming. Soft and flexible, yet decent strength. One of my top favorites now that I've figured out how to handle it properly. That said, there's a learning curve to figuring out exactly how to get good prints with it. It strings like crazy, as foaming filaments are prone to. You'll need to carefully plan the layout of your pieces on the bed, as anywhere it travels, you'll be cleaning up a coral reef of stings. Works best printing one item at a time versus a bed of prints. Use the load/unload feature if your machine has one and run cleaning filament after, as it's challenging to get ALL of it out of the hot end because of the foaming action. Printing parts for costumes on an Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus. Read more

Per eSun's Fast filaments print parameters document, I printed at 250°/50° (though label says 190°-270°, the doc recommends 240°), extrusion multiplier of 0.55, zero retraction, and density set to 1.2g/cm². Print speed of 40mm/s is recommended, I found I could safely go up to 80 on this large, smooth object. I found that the print yellowed out of the nozzle, but I turned part cooling off altogether and the yellowing stopped, leaving a natural cream color. Bed adhesion on glass is poor and requires glue stick and/or a large brim, but adhesion on textured PEI is so aggressive that I had to clean the PEI with acetone (which is technically safe, as PEI is a polyimide like Kapton). Half the bits of filament would peel off the bed cleanly, but the other half stuck really hard. cooling the bed sheet didn't facilitate cleaning or part removal. Perhaps turning off the bed heat would alleviate the problem. Overall a very cool product. Would be perfect for airplanes or water toys. This would also be a good material for lowering the mass of your hotend, if you have many printed parts on it which you could duplicate in lightweight material. Read more

Take the time to get your settings correct. In my case, I use a BambuLabs P1S. Thier Wikki has a great tutorial for LW-PLA. Also printing one part per plate will greatly reduce any stringing that is prominent with this material. Easy to paint with dollar store craft paint. Read more