I recently installed the 80cc bicycle motor kit on my mountain bike, and I'm blown away by the transformation! This kit has taken my cycling experience to a whole new level. *Pros:* 1. *Easy Installation*: The kit comes with comprehensive instructions, making it relatively simple to install, even for a novice like me. 2. *Increased Power*: The 80cc motor provides a significant boost, allowing me to tackle steep hills and longer distances with ease. 3. *Improved Speed*: I've noticed a considerable increase in speed, making my daily commute faster and more enjoyable. 4. *Durable Construction*: The motor and components seem well-built and durable, withstanding rough terrain and varying weather conditions. *Cons:* 1. *Noise*: The motor can be quite loud, especially when accelerating. 2. *Weight*: The kit adds significant weight to the bike, affecting its handling and maneuverability. 3. *Limited Adjustability*: The motor's performance can't be fine-tuned to suit individual preferences. *Tips and Recommendations:* 1. *Follow Instructions Carefully*: Ensure you follow the installation manual closely to avoid any issues. 2. *Adjust Your Riding Style*: Get accustomed to the increased power and speed by adjusting your riding technique. 3. *Regular Maintenance*: Regularly check and maintain the motor, chain, and other components to ensure optimal performance. Overall, I'm thoroughly satisfied with the 80cc bicycle motor kit. It's a fantastic upgrade for anyone looking to enhance their cycling experience. Just be aware of the potential drawbacks and take necessary precautions. Would I recommend it? Absolutely! Read more

Needed modifications to fit my frame, as expected. Also needed a lot of tinkering to get it running smoothly. Do not buy if you don't have tools, knowledge, and a lot of free time and cash for repairs/replacement parts. I spent as much, if not more, time wrenching than riding. Unfortunately, my bike was stolen before I finished the break-in period, so no thoughts on long-term value or quality. I would buy again, now that I'm prepared with the knowledge that this is more of a project than a ready-to-ride kit. Read more

amazing engine runs like a beautie after building it fired up almost first try, the assembly was pretty easy and it fits almost any bike with a v frame the best part is to install the engine and the worst it the sprocket be careful with the center of the sprocket and the wheel. so it came almost undamaged exept the tank, it was bent but had mo leaks and the box looked deformed I bought a 32 tooth sprocket and I get speeds about to 55 km/h so like 30-35 mph about mixing the fuel and the oil is up to you just add about 5 to 10 caps of oil into there and will run good, about the miles per gallon it's really small I go around 2 weeks at one tank and the tank is pretty big. about the speedometer it worked for like 30 minutes and died and new battery dosent help. I got a problem because of my fault I burned the clutch because I was trying to start from standing without pedaling so I had to buy a new one so I will warn yall that the clutch is not that strong so if your bike is running you will have to pedal first and then let of clutch and the give gas. the choke does not work it only starts on open so I don't use it. the clutch lever is not that good because the lock on it doesn't hold it good enough and it could slip. the chain will loosen a lot so you will need to tighten the tensinor from time to time.breakin in the engine should last about 200 miles.the fuel filter will turn bad in a couple of days and you should probably buy a better one from autoparts so it won't leak. SOME TIPS: when you are assembling your bike and don't know how to get the chain through the engine drive sprocket, just grab a hart tool and the right socket and spin it clock wise and you will get your chain trough when starting your bike you should get some speed give it full throttle and it will start in a couple of tries and you will have to tighten the bolt at the left of the carburator for good running pase. if your bike won't start check your carburator if it has leaks or if the gas is working the the fuel is coming in to the carburator, check the spark plug to check if you have spark you will have to sit on you bike pedal touch your spark with your finger int if is slightly hits you the it means you have spark if not check the wiring and check if it's clipped on to the clam if all of that dosent hel that you should try another spark plug. that's it thanks for reading. Read more

For me, after four times with this kit, I'm impressed. My first one was built in early spring last year, and is still going straight and strong. They are very reliable once the little bugs are worked out. It takes a bit of tinkering during break in. Micro adjustments will lessen the stress on motors, which can be fragile because they're not metal. The best mod you can do is put cut pieces of tire inner tube to fit in between the engine mounts and the bike itself. This almost free mod, is the best thing to keep it from vibrating things loose. And a close second is the brakes... If you have to GO! You need the WOAH 😉 If you want more performance, start with better carb and/or an exhaust pipe with expansion chamber. adjusting the clutch . making sure the chain and everything is lined up right. adjusting carb and breaks, all of these things are necessary and very important so that your project will last. It's best for longevity and performance to break in the engine slowly, with a bit of extra oil in the fuel mixture. My personal IMAYCC 80cc procedure is: 30:1 which is 4.3oz of oil per gallon for the first 3 full tanks. Try to vary throttle settings a lot. After the break in tanks, a 40:1 mix is my recommendation for normal use. If a nut/bolt is going to come loose, it usually happens during the break in and "shake down" rides. I use a torque wrench for the important hardware such as engine mounting bolts or chain tensioners I like the size of the tank... Looks average, but is bigger. The small fuel lines get hard and need replaced after a season of riding to prevent leaking next time. They will hold out for quite a while with regular use, but if it sits a lot they will need changed sooner. If the engine seems to be carbonized and sooty, add a couple tablespoons of ATF to the fuel, then run it dry. These kits are awesome! And fun to build! Any questions you could possibly have, are answered easily through a YouTube or Google search. Most 80cc engines have the same processes for maintenance and repairs. Enjoy, Friends 🤠 Read more

I bought this because my electric bike has distance ceilings that frustrate me and I live in a community with a lot of mountains and I'm not as young as I used to be to get up the hills on my weekend rides or rides with family or friends. I have an EE degree from many years ago so how hard could it be, and I have put together many small engines for my kids when they were growing up. Boy was I wrong, but then who could've assumed the manufacturer didn’t want to include manuals. First off there's no wiring diagram which is dangerous when you're involving a CDI/magneto and gasoline. But the CDI wires (Blue/Blk) are dual(spliced) already with female connector and matching blue/black/white(not used-must seal with elec. tape or should be remove from the magneto altogether you're comfortable doing that but not difficult if you open the casing. So very straightforward as it is logically outlined. Easy Peasy... Unless you get no spark, because then you have no idea if the wires are colored correctly or not because there is no wiring diagram or even installation manual only a parts description those don't describe the wires! So the assumption is blue to blue and black to black, if there's no spark is there a better assumption, what did the manufacturer simply send you add CDI or magneto? How would I know, I don't know where the probabilities lie given this is a brand new unit it's hard to assume that would be the case. I put my meter on it it says the wiring has continuity so why no spark? Unless the black is not ground and instead hot? But no one asked and no diagram to verify. So is the black from the Magneto/CDI hot instead of ground then? Is the spark plug bad? Is the ignition wire bad? Is the magneto/CDI bad? Is the CAD/WRAP in the engine bad? How can you know if you don't have confirmation of wiring to start from? It's all brand new out-of-the-box so I couldn't imagine that the parts are bad, so I guess I could replace the CDI, ignition wire, spark plug, and Magneto together and if there's still no spark then I would know that the wires are colored incorrectly. Are you kidding me? That's the only solution they give us? Wouldn't it be easier to include instruction manual that at least confirms Black wires on the CDI, CAD, and kill switch are all ground? I asked the company for a wiring diagram but no response (except that the white wire should be taped off as it can short the starter and I should go find a YouTube video for wiring specifications of their products from a third party, but not identifying any that would be applicable). Because I am just curious, I'm going to replace the magneto, the CID, the spark plug, ignition wire and the Killswitch from another kit that I just bought and put together and runs perfectly. The two kits and various parts look identical except for their badges,so it looks like the same manufacturer. I'll update on what I find out tomorrow.. Read more