I used this on Cannon gun safe, 6-7 years old, with a NL keypad and a Group 1 Rotabolt. It was taking more and more tries entering the combination on the keypad to open the safe so I knew it was going to fail. I didn't want to have to do this every few years. I watched the Sargent and Greenleaf 6730 video multiple times as well as the Cannon gun safe lock replacement videos on YouTube. The Cannon Rotabolt only uses three screws to mount it to the back of the safe door / mechanism. The fourth screw hole it's present but not tapped on this safe. It is a 1/4 - 20 thread on the screws provided with this lock. Use a bottom tap or you will deform the plate that the lock mounts to. The holes on the front of the safe door that the dial Ring attaches to are not as far center to center as they are on the Sargent and Greenleaf dial Ring but the dial Ring does have holes that will accommodate the holes on the Cannon door. Unfortunately these holes on the Canon door are not tapped, the old keypad uses the horizontal screw holes, the dial ring for this lock uses the vertical holes. I had to use an 8-32 tap to accommodate the screws provided with this lock. A bottom tap is not necessary for this operation. Once I had everything assembled I could not get the lock to operate. This was operator error I did not realize that after you enter the combination that you changed the lock to you must rotate the dial to the right to get it to unlock. This is where they tell you in the Sargent and Greenleaf video to rotate to approximately 97 or 98 on the dial to get it to unlock, for some reason I assumed it was only 20 numbers or so but it does have to be rotated to the right to 97 or 98 to unlock. It appears to be a quality lock and now I don't have to worry about an electronic keypad failling again. Read more

These kits worked perfectly, operate very well. Read more

worked great Read more

Was worried about the electronic lock on a 15 year old safe, I have heard some lock-out story's on electronic locks that stopped working. Having had over 20 years experience with S&G locks in a commercial setting, I knew that was the best. I checked the current lock and it was the same industry standard size as this one. Replacement took less then a hour. A nice video is available on line from S&G with all the steps required. The lock works perfectly and it should last several lifetimes. Read more

PREFACE. Electronic lock keypads are only EMP resistant. They can test them 1,000s of times in whatever contraption they want to pretend what a true Nutron Bom$ will do, a real nu$e, melts steel, glass, and makes that insane long lasting tens of thousands of watt microwave oven that frys most anything, but having been in electronics (my BASEET is in Electronics) If an electronic lock is so "tuff and resiliant" to last through an EMP why are so many people needing to replace their electronic lock. BECAUSE THEY ARE NOT THAT WELL MADE! So here is my story: Never having had an "electronic" lock safe in the past, I was hesitant to buy one with an electronic lock. I even called Liberty safe wanting to buy one new with a mechanical lock. Their kind sails attendant said that I would need to buy that aftermarket and have a locksmith install it. (I am thinking extra bucks and I don't like anyone working on my stuff. Especially around my home anywhere I am going to be putting a safe. So I end up buying a Liberty safe from a scratch and dent outlet with "one of these great electronic locks. I talked me into it because it was a "good deal". But every time I opened this thing, in the back of my mind was this is gimmicky and all electronics fail. Then Satan comes along... saying, But they promise it is EMP proof! So it must be really built well. Well fast forward a couple of years and Safe beeps a couple extra noises when I open it indicating it needs a new battery.. Battery was fairly new, but I changed it anyway. Fast forward another couple months. Went to open it and NOTHING, Dead. Put in new battery, nothing but blinking lights. I pop the keypad off and smell the back of the keypad and the tail tail smell of burned electronics is evident. CRAP! Now I am considering plasma cutting the face off this safe so I can get my belongings out of it. Send off an email to Liberty safes website. I don't hear back for a WEEK anything at all. No email, text or call. So I start doing my research on getting a replacement since I need this thing to open. Looking to buy a replacement piece of crap keypad... 125-250 bucks... assuming they are interchangeable. Call Liberty safe to see if I can go to one of their outlets about 50 miles from me to get a replacement. I spend over an hour on hold. While waiting I get the idea to look online for some additional help. Lucky for me I find on some NON Liberty safe location social media forums that a brand new Duracell battery may help open the safe. So I drive to the store and buy some. Still on hold the entire drive there and back mind you... Put it in the safe and IT ACTUALLY OPENS! I am thinking sweet! Old keypad just smells odd all the time, it was just a battery.... just the battery, everything is OK, no plasma cutter needed we are good... One week later. Dead. Not opening. Battery is dead as dead. New battery again... Opens. WHEEW! Lucky! Tore the electronic lock system out of it right then and bought this mechanical lock. NO SPECIAL LOCKSMITH NEEDED. I will never look back. Lock installed quickly, Had all the hardware needed. Instructions were clear. Lock spins flawless. Setting the code was easy. DO NOT WAIT FOR YOUR POS ELECTRONIC LOCK TO FAIL BEFORE MAKING AN IMPORTANT DECISION. If the EMPs don't fry your POS electronic lock keypad it is going to fail anyway. Be ahead of the imminent failure, buy this lock today and be done with it. You will sleep easy knowing you did. Read more

Works well to replace the bad electronic lock on an American Security safe. Easy to install. There is a good installation video on the Sargent and Greenleaf web site that was very helpful. Read more