Works well as advertised. 180mm works perfectly for Zeiss 25mm f2 on full frame. For ultrawides like 14mm or mirrorless cameras with much smaller lenses a shorter nodal slide may be a better fit. No quality control issues so you don't have to pay 5x for a big brand. Remember this is not a macro slide but can be an ok compromise for low magnification focus stack work. Read more

I got this Rail for use with a Fujifilm X-Pro2 and several Fujinon lenses. IMHO, the build quality could not be better! Made of high-grade aluminum, from a weight perspective, I think it would have no problem supporting a large DSLR with an f/2.8 telephoto zoom! (Of course I haven’t tested that scenario, as I don’t know if the 180mm length would be appropriate.) All markings are clearly visible, and the knob is of equally high quality. In summary, this appears to be a fantastic bang for the buck, and it also comes with 2 Allen wrenches. Highly recommended! Read more

Belle construction, impression de solidité ! Mais la longueur de ce rail nodal est importante. Comme il interférait avec le porte-filtres carrés de mon optique, j'ai du le renvoyer. Bonne réactivité du vendeur pour faciliter ce retour ! Le 17/04/2023 : remboursement traité, action rapide, rien a reprocher. Merci ! Read more

This one is the perfect length for mounting a Garmin Xero chronograph to your rifle Read more

Excellent value. Good plate compatibility. Clamp compatibility good, but some unusually deep clamps will not clamp the rail correctly. Suitable for most combinations of SLRs with Ultra-Wide Zooms. I've tried a few clamps, and the maximum shift relative to the clamp centered is in the range 135-140mm. All the clamps I tried allowed reverse shift, in the range 1-5mm. These were US-style clamps, that support safety stop-screws. The rail extends about 153mm in front of the centre of the clamp. Lens compatibility: - The clamp is an integral part of the rail, so cannot be rotated. This tends to make the rail unsuitable for use with large, typically telephoto, lenses which are fitted with lens collars. Then panoramas are typically shot with normal-to-ultra-wide lenses, which do not have collars. - If a lens with a wide lens hood - or even a wide hood mounting ring is mounted on a short-ish body where the lens mount is relatively close to the base of the camera, and the body is mounted in landscape, the lens hood, or even the hood mounting ring may physically conflict with the rail. You can check for such a possible conflict by placing a ruler or other straight-edge against the base of your camera plate, and checking if it is clear of your lens hood. The clamping surface of the clamp is about 0.5mm below the top of the rail, so 1mm clearance or more would be good. Only quite large full-frame bodies, such as Nikon D810 or larger avoid this problem. Then a simple solution is to simply not shoot panoramas in landscape orientation: shooting panoramas in portrait orientation - using an L-plate - will generally give better results anyway. Another solution is to purchase a spare aftermarket lens hood, and cut away the part of the hood that conflicts with the rail. - Particularly if you are using ultra-wide prime lenses, and/or a mirrorless body, you should check that the rail is not so long that it will be in shot, both in landscape, and portrait orientations. Portrait orientation is usually the worst case. This can be done by placing a ruler, extended 153mm beyond the centre of your camera plate against the plate, and checking if the ruler is in shot. Clamp design: - The clamping design is excellent. Cutaways ensure that the camera plate is clamped at its edges. The centre of the area between the clamp jaws is recessed by about 0.4mm, preventing unstable clamping in the centre of the clamp area. Plate design (compatibility with clamps): - Good compatibility. On both top and bottom of the rail. Top and bottom of the rail are designed identically. This might seem a strange thing to mention, but a couple of other cheaper chinese rails I've tried use different dimensions for clamping from above and below, with only claming from below giving reasonable clamp compatibility. Only just clamps correctly in two Hejnar clamps I've tried, but I think that's a problem with the design of Hejnar's sliding jaw: the clamp depth on the two Hejnar clamps is about 4.70mm on the fixed side, but about 5.02mm on the moving jaw side. Other comments: - The scale is the wrong way round ! The zero of the scale should be at the centre of the clamp ! Has the designer ever used one of these ? - The Scale is, however fairly accurate, and the two sides are aligned to within 0.25mm. - With some lenses, the top of bubble level could reflect light into the lens, risking veiling or flaring. - Mercifully, the designer did not shorten the useful offset range by including a pointless strap attachment at the end, unlike other chinese rail designs. Read more